BASEL: Earth First

Earth tones, especially brown diamonds in rose gold, are the most important trend from Basel this year.

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BASEL: Earth First #1
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Earth tones, especially brown diamonds in rose gold, are the most important trend from Basel this year. Brands launched new collections in a muted warm palette many are calling "the bronze look." While some companies have experimented using actual bronze and 18k rose gold combinations, most are opting for a burnished sun-kissed look by using brown diamonds in rose gold, brown rhodium, or brown gold.
Overall, diamonds and gold are as important as usual, but in designs that are more understated than traditional diamond jewelry. The more subdued effect of the brown diamond and rose gold "bronze" looks exemplify the trend toward austere luxury. Collections entering this new bronze age included Roberto Coin, Mattioli, Antonini, Staurino, Mariani, de Grisogono, and Garavelli.
Many designers report that brown styles were very strong through the holiday season and they expect brown to continue to be an important part of the jewelry palette for the foreseeable future.
The earthy influence can also be seen in new collections set with unusual minerals or "genuine stones," such as common pebbles, agates, jasper, petersite, dendrite crystal, fossils, dinosaur bone, and a host of affordable and attractive alternatives to traditional gemstones. Many were used in natural shapes, but the latest designs set these unusual stones in much the way precious gems are used. In some cases, diamonds and other gemstones are set into the stone.
Classic stones, such as malachite, lapis lazuli, black onyx, tiger's eye, and white agate continue to be popular too. But the new alternative rock jewelry offers an organic, one-of-a-kind look and a bold scale that makes these styles instant conversational pieces. Designers creating stone looks included Roberto Coin, David Yurman, Tamara Comolli, Gurhan, and Rodney Rayner.
Many new collections used a palette of gold and black, pairing yellow gold with black gold, oxidized silver, or black gemstones, including black diamonds, black spinel, black sapphire, black onyx, ebony, and jet. Golden pearls, citrine, and other golden stones were mixed with black to create this dramatic effect which, again, was a much more subdued holiday look than in past years.
Ironically, many of the Italian and other European collections featured looks inspired by classic American jewelry masters Verdura and Seaman Schepps, whose looks defined good taste and fashion in the 1950s and early 1960s. Many styles featured bold gemstone cabochons and rounded forms, multicolor and tonal gemstone combinations, classic motifs like crosses, oversized rings, dramatic cuff bracelets, collar necklace silhouettes, wood, classic bold links, and shells and nautical motifs.
Amethyst and citrine, two of Verdura's favorite gemstones, were also prominent, mostly set in rose or yellow gold. As was the case with Verdura's enduring influence, a bold statement piece, whether a brooch, cuff, neckpiece, or an oversized ring, is the must-have of the new season.
As far as important colors in gemstones, cool blues, purples, and some greens, colors usually associated with springtime, are strong even for fall. Blues range from deep blue sapphire to blue topaz to iolite. Purples, especially amethyst, were strong. The cool effect of these colors was tempered by setting them in rose or yellow gold rather than white metals.
Dimensional design, so important in jewelry for the past year, is now being interpreted in watch design as well, with many new watch designs featuring multilevel cases and dials that combined traditional metals such as stainless steel or 18k rose gold with new alternative materials. Among the popular choices are carbon, including the so-called "diamond-like" carbon, high-tech ceramic, rubber, blackened steel, or titanium.
A few brands, such as Vacheron Constantin and Clerc, showed palladium cases, a new white metal alternative in fine watches. Adding to the dimensional effect on watch dials, many feature see-through windows where movements can be seen or functions such as a calendar wheel are now entirely exposed.
— Jeff Prine and Cheryl Kremkow
CHAMPAGNE, Anyone?
Rio Tinto, the global diamond mining giant, is ready to serve the industry champagne once again. The company is sponsoring a new champagne diamond marketing program that focuses on supporting retailers with extensive retail marketing tools.
Rio Tinto Diamonds markets diamonds the Rio Tinto Group mines from the Argyle diamond mine in Australia, the Diavik diamond mine in Canada, and the Murowa diamond mine in Zimbabwe. Argyle produces the majority of the world's brown-toned diamonds.
"The new range of promotional materials is aimed at supporting the retailer, educating the consumer, and opening up new distribution channels," says Jean-Marc Lieberherr, head of Rio Tinto Diamonds.
The new materials, branded "Champagne diamonds . . . beautiful, naturally" include a brochure, color chart, image library, training presentation, and a CD that showcases loose polished champagne diamonds in the full range of colors and cuts in images and movies.
The new champagne diamond materials, which will be launched at the JCK Las Vegas Show, target consumers who like to express their individuality and appreciate the finer things in life. The promotional materials showcase a full color palette from light champagne to dark cognac, as well as communicating the versatility and accessibility of the gems.
"We'd like to invite manufacturers and retailers to become more involved with our program," says Rebecca Foerster, Rio Tinto's U.S. marketing director. Although Rio Tinto will be working with major retailers to promote champagne diamonds, Foerster says that the company would also like to encourage independent jewelers to become partners. "We will be positioning champagne diamonds as an aspirational purchase that is perfect for the high-end independent retailer."
The new champagne marketing program comes at a fortuitous moment. The world of diamond jewelry has become more diverse than ever before. Jewelry designers are using more unusual diamonds, including more unusual colors, a wider range of clarities including milky and icy diamonds, and a wider range of cuts, from rough to unusual rose cuts and flat slices.
"Champagne diamonds as a product category are certainly gaining momentum in the U.S.," Foerster says. "There is now a greater availability of champagne diamond jewelry styles, designers worldwide are embracing champagne diamonds and, of course, Hollywood celebrities are revealing them on the red carpet as the ultimate fashion accessory."
"We love to incorporate color into our designs and using champagne diamonds has given us that opportunity," says Andrea Hansen of H. Stern. "They have not only brought the trend for colored diamonds to an accessible price point, they also add an edge of modernity to diamond jewelry that is not easily achieved with white diamonds."
The new campaign also includes a consumer web site at www.champagnediamondcenter.com that will help educate consumers about the beauty and accessibility of champagne diamonds. The site includes a retailer locator. If you carry champagne diamonds, you can apply to be listed on the site by contacting Rio Tinto at (646) 429-1624.
— Cheryl Kremkow
INDIA'S Exports Up
India's gem and jewelry exports for the financial year ending in March 2008 increased a remarkable 22 percent to $20.8 billion, despite the appreciation of the rupee and the loss of GSP status, which increased the duty on imports to the U.S.
The growth was due to surging exports to Asia. For the first time, the percentage of India's exports going to Hong Kong, 26 percent, was the same as that going to the U.S. This is due primarily to growth in exports of cut and polished diamonds, which increased 30 percent to $14.2 billion. Hong Kong was the most important market for diamond exports, accounting for 35 percent, followed by the U.S., with a 24 percent share of diamond exports.
Exports of gold jewelry rose by 8 percent with total exports amounting to $5.6 billion. Export of colored gemstones and others grew 12 percent to $276 million. "What is remarkable about this performance is that it has been achieved in face of appreciating rupee, high interest rates, withdrawal of GSP benefits, and general economic slowdown in our major markets," says Sanjay Kothari, chairman of India's Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council.
RETAILER Designs Shine
Four retail jewelers were honored for their jewelry design skills in Jewelers of America's 18th annual Affiliate Design Competition. Designers from Missouri, Oklahoma, Texas, and Wisconsin took home the first place prizes in three categories based on the cost of materials used judged by a panel of industry experts including Modern Jeweler managing editor Matthew Kramer. One "Buyer's Choice" award was selected by show attendees.
The competition features unique jewelry that has won design contests sponsored by JA's regional affiliates throughout 2007. This year, Jewelers of America expanded the competition by allowing submissions from member jewelers whose affiliate organization did not hold a local competition.
First place in the over $3,000 category went to Ziad Noshie of Almaza Jewelers, Houston, Texas, for an 18k gold necklace and earrings with freshwater cultured pearls and more than 600 pavé diamonds (1).
First place in the $1,001 to $3,000 category went to Joel Wiland of J. David Jewelry, Broken Arrow, Oklahoma, for a pendant with a blue topaz set over trilliant and round diamonds visible through the gem (2).
First place for the $1,000 and under category went to Steven Kistner of Steven Paul Designs, Delafield, Wisconsin, for a men's 14k gold ring with 12 trapezoidal pieces including nine that move, inlaid with black onyx and 0.44 carats in diamonds (3).
The Buyer's Choice award went to Dale Hurt of Gold-N-Designs, Lee's Summit, Missouri, for a platinum and 18k gold pendant with tanzanite, pink tourmaline, opal doublet, and diamonds (4).
The judges evaluated the 30 entries on craftsmanship, marketability, practicality and wearability, and overall design. This year, the entries included many innovative designs with movement, complex construction, and elaborate detail.
"Jewelers of America is pleased to recognize the talents of regional jewelers, whose designs demonstrate the remarkable jewelry available from our members nationwide," says JA chairman John Green of Lux Bond & Green. "We congratulate all of the contestants on their award-winning designs."
PARAIBA'S Day in Court
The past year has been challenging for the colored gemstone industry. First there was the Nuclear Regulatory Commission's decision that they really were interested in regulating blue topaz after all. Then turmoil in Burma led to a likely ban on imports of Burmese gemstones like jadeite and ruby. Now it's "Paraiba-type" tourmaline's turn in the legal hot seat.
Paraiba tourmaline dealer David Sherman of Paraiba.com, who mines Paraiba tourmalines in Brazil, has filed suit in California against the American Gem Trade Association, the Gemological Institute of America, gemstone wholesaler Brazil Imports, and 18 AGTA board members charging that the use of the term "Paraiba" to refer to copper-containing tourmalines mined in Africa has devalued tourmaline from the original Brazilian deposit, causing him to lose sales and his inventory to drop in value. The suit asks for damages of $120 million.
Why sue AGTA and GIA? Reports from the AGTA Gem Testing Center and GIA Laboratory use the term "Paraiba," derived from the name of the Brazilian state where the tourmaline was originally found, to refer to any copper-containing tourmaline, regardless of origin.
The labs' decision to use "Paraiba" on reports of copper-bearing African tourmaline follows nomenclature standardized by the Laboratory Manual Harmonization Committee which defines Paraiba as a tourmaline variety name for cuprite elbaite tourmaline. The committee is composed of representatives from labs around the world, including AGTA and GIA in the U.S., CISGEM in Italy, GAAJ Laboratory in Japan, GIT-Gem Testing Laboratory in Thailand, and Gubelin Gem Lab and SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute in Switzerland. The LMHC ruled in 2006 that, "The variety name 'Paraiba' is derived from the Brazilian locality where this gemstone was first mined, however today it may come from a number of localities."
Neon blue and green Paraiba tourmaline was discovered by Heitor Barbosa in the Sao Jose de Batalha mining area of the state of Paraiba in 1987. The production from that deposit waned in the late 1990s and was supplemented by other similar deposits in Brazil. In his complaint, Sherman uses the term Paraiba not only to refer to tourmaline mined in the Brazilian state of Paraiba but also tourmaline mined in the neighboring Brazilian state of Rio Grande do Norte.
AGTA board members named in the suit include Barbara Lawrence, Omi Nagpal, Kambiz Sabouri, Betty Sue King, Sam Podder, John Bachman, Peter Bazar, Robert Bentley, Soraya Cayen, Sushil Goyal, Benjamin Hackman, Robert Kane, Glenn Lehrer, Surinder Mittal, Joe Orlando, Eric Schwotzer, Eric Braunwart, and William Larson.
— Cheryl Kremkow
AGS Launches Sales Training at Conclave
Four days, 50 educational sessions, and 700 jewelers added up to a successful American Gem Society Conclave in Seattle in April. Speakers at the event included Martin Lindstrom, Scott Ginsberg, Malcolm Gladwell, and Ross Shafer.
But the education won't stop after conclave this year. AGS announced a new comprehensive ongoing sales training program, developed with Richardson, the global leader in sales training programs. The new "Custom Sales Training: Measured Results" program includes a two-day instructor-led customized member sales training class; a one-day class for AGS members who are managers and trainers; and an on-line interactive web-based course designed to provide ongoing support to the instructor-led classes.
"We have offered our members the best in networking and education, the most up-to-date gemological training through our titles, leading-edge marketing programs and support, and a community that is second to none," says Ruth Batson, executive director of AGS. "The custom sales training program is customized to meet member needs. It's powerful and when followed it will make a positive impact on the bottom line of their business."
Richardson designed the instructor-led classes and content in tandem with a committee comprised of AGS members and staff. The classes feature jewelry sales scenarios, role-playing, an overview of sales styles, fundamental selling skills to overcome customer objections, guidance for positioning against the competition, and sales framework.
The first instructor-led courses will take place during JCK Las Vegas, June 4-5, 2008, at AGS headquarters in Las Vegas. The web-based courses can serve as either an introduction to the program or as ongoing support for the instructor-led training classes.
AGS also inaugurated a new president at conclave: Mark Moeller of R.F. Moeller Jeweler, St. Paul, Minnesota. Susan and Glenn Rothman, founders and owners of Hearts On Fire, are the 2008 recipients of the AGS Robert M. Shipley Award, conferred annually in recognition of outstanding service.
Jewelers for Children, in partnership with the Make-A-Wish Foundation, granted its one thousandth wish at the show: a trip to Paris for a child and her family. Through the charitable donations and contributions of society members, over $75,000 was raised at the event.
The next Conclave will be held in Chicago on April 1-4, 2009. For information on attending, e-mail conclave09@ags.org.
Pearl Theme Park Planned for DUBAI
Tourists from around the world will be able to experience the lustrous world of the pearl in a planned new entertainment, education, and shopping destination in Dubai. Dubai Multi Commodities Centre recently unveiled ambitious plans for "Pearls of Arabia," a landmark project on Antarctica of The World Islands, a man-made archipelago that is expected to become a tourist destination.
The core of the project is a 6,000 square-meter experience center which is a joint venture with Paspaley Pearling Co., the world's largest producer of South Sea cultured pearls.
"We are extremely proud to be associated with DMCC as they launch this exciting project to revitalize the region's pearling tradition," says Nicholas Paspaley, executive chairman of Paspaley. "Historically, Dubai served as the world's hub in the trade of fine-quality natural pearls. Now, almost 100 years later, we are delighted to collaborate with DMCC to revitalize the region's traditional association with pearls. Together, we will resurrect Dubai's reputation as one of the world's premier and most important pearl destinations. Dubai will present to the world the best selection of pearls and pearl jewelry that the 21st century pearling industry has to offer, and will showcase the beautiful history and story of pearls."
Attractions planned for Pearls of Arabia include a pearl-themed cultural heritage center, a performing arts theater, an exhibition gallery, a themed restaurant, and boutiques, some from leading international brands. Visitors will travel to Pearls of Arabia by water ferries. The facility is expected to be complete by the end of 2010.
"The past meets the present today, as we look out to the sparkling waters of the Arabian Gulf and seek inspiration from our heritage to build a brighter tomorrow," says Ahmed Bin Sulayem, executive chairman of the DMCC. "Less than a century ago, pearling was the very lifeblood of Arabia, accounting for some 80,000 jobs in the UAE alone and representing 95 percent of the country's total revenues. Pearls of Arabia presents age-old wisdom in a modern and contemporary fashion to revive the region's historic legacy for the benefit of future generations."
This project is the first stage of Dubai's plan of reestablishing the country as a center for the global and regional pearl trade with specific focus on trading, grading, trade events, and auctions alongside trade and consumer education. The DMCC had established a colored stones and pearls division in 2007, as well as a Dubai Pearl Exchange, which provides a facilitated free-trade environment for pearl traders.
DMCC is also studying offering certification for pearls in conjunction with an international gem certification organization. Certificates issued from the emirate would have the official imprimatur of the Dubai government, and in time the Dubai name may once again be recognized as the hallmark of pearl quality.
"Pearls represent a unique partnership between man and nature, and the pearl story is a beautiful one just waiting to be told," says Gaiti Rabbani, executive director of colored stones and pearls for the DMCC. "Here in Dubai, until not so very long ago, pearl divers plunged into the depths of the ocean, surfacing with fistfuls of oysters and high hopes of buried treasure, as part of their daily routine of earning a living for their families from nature's resource of pearl oysters. The launch of Pearls of Arabia signals the emirate's esteem for this storied past, its respect for the toil of its forefathers, and its recognition of the everlasting beauty of one of nature's greatest gifts."
Natural Pearls at CHRISTIE'S
A recent Christie's auction in Dubai, which sold a total of $20 million in jewelry and watches, included several important pearl lots, setting several records. The top lot was a superb natural pearl and diamond necklace which sold for $1,743,400, the highest price for an item sold by Christie's in the Middle East. A natural pearl necklace owned by the most prominent Arab singer of the 20th century, Umm Kulthum (1904-1975) sold for $1.4 million, more than ten times its pre-sale estimate. In total, sales at the auction included $6 million in natural pearls. A rare yellow to pinkish-orange natural pearl weighing 241 grains (60.36 carats), labeled the second largest freshwater pearl ever recorded, sold for $713,000, a world record price for a freshwater pearl.
author: Rick Velayo, rick@gleimjewelers.com
Gleim the Jeweler, Palo Alto, California




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