Emerald

Brief and concise, the emerald guide can answer all your questions.

Emerald Introduction
You have entered the most thorough, concise and fun guide to understanding emeralds on the internet. In the next half-hour, you can know enough about these beautiful birthstones for the month of May to shop for and buy them with confidence and complete peace of min.

Emeralds of top quality don’t take a backseat to any stone in value. A large stone of exceptional beauty can sell for over $20,000 per carat!

Although emeralds are mined in several locations such as Zambia and Brazil, Colombia,South America has long been known as the capitol for mining the most beautiful of these unique stones. The rich bluish-green stones mined from Muzo have set the standard for judging top quality color in emeralds.

In the following chapters, you will learn how to judge top quality color, clarity, what treatments are acceptable, what deceptive practices to look out for, and we’ve even included a handy shopping checklist you can print out and take with you on your adventure into the wonderful world of emeralds.

Color
Color Express Facts

Most gemologists agree that the darker, bluish-green emeralds are most valuable Always examine emeralds under fluorescent lighting, looking for uniformity of color Pick a stone that compliments your skin tone, hair color and wardrobe

Since emeralds are a member of the beryl family of gems along with aquamarine, morganite and goshenite, among others, one might thing that emerald is simply green beryl. Truth be told, the yellowish-green beryl is called green beryl, while lighter, bluish-green beryl is classified as aquamarine. Therefore the lofty distinction of emerald is reserved for a vaguely specific hue of green that is determined by gemologists with the following factors.

Hue: There is no precise green for emeralds. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA)considers anything in the darker bluish-green to vivid green stones emeralds, with bluish-green as most valuable. While many gem dealers will sell yellowish-green stones as emeralds. It is generally agreed, though, that the lightest of the green stones are considered green beryl.

Tone: Refers to the range of lightness to darkness of emeralds; from very light to very dark.

Purity: This factor looks for overtones of gray or brown. Presence of these tones greatly reduces the quality and value of emeralds. You want pure green, no matter what the tone or hue.

Coloring Agent: There is much controversy over exactly what chemical make-up qualifies a gem as emerald. All you really need to know is that the GIA and most gem dealers are far more concerned with the actual color than the chemical analysis of the stone. Think green. But if you want to know the composition, remember that the GIA considers any stone not colored by iron to be emerald.

Examining emeralds for color quality is tricky, but here’s a few tips you may find helpful:

1. Wipe the stone with a soft cloth. Look at the stone under a fluorescent light.

2. What is the dominant hue? Light green? Bluish-green? etc. If your overall impression is black, brown or gray, pick another stone

3. Think in terms of what color works best for you. Just because the GIA says bluish-green is the most valuable, doesn’t mean it’s right for you

4. Examine the emerald over a variety of colored backgrounds. Does the color wash out? Does the stone turn black? You are looking for a gem that retains the strength of its green under almost all circumstances

5. Look at the stone from the top, bottom and sides. You are looking for evenly distributed color.

The main thing to keep in mind is that there is no set standard for judging an emerald’s color. Although most experts agree that the darker bluish-green hues are the cream of the crop, it is still subjective and the final decision can be yours to play with. Isn’t that nice to know?

Clarity
Clarity Express Facts

Examine all emeralds under both overhead lighting and diffused bottom lighting. Always consider transparency and clarity together. They may cause a perfectly colored stone to lose it’s appeal. Always compare stones of the same cut and hue together.

Just like any other natural gemstone, emeralds must be judged by the type and severity of flaws as well as the transparency present in each stone. Clarity refers to the internal flaws (inclusions) and external flaws (blemishes) while transparency is graded from highly transparent through opaque. In the simplest terms possible, here are the acceptable flaws and optimum transparency in determining emeralds value.

Clarity: There are many types of flaws in emeralds, most of which are acceptable. If, however, the flaw mars the purity and uniformity of color, or if the severity of inclusion is so severe as to endanger the stone’s durability, you should consider another stone. So, be on the lookout for cracks (feathers) that run deep into the stone. Also watch for "color-zoning" which detracts from a brilliant, uniform color. There are also "liquid inclusions" that are actually holes within the stone filled with fluid. These are okay as long as they don’t give the gem a milky appearance.

Transparency: The reason transparency and clarity are factored together is that flaws will affect the amount of light that passes through the stone. You are looking for a gem through which light passes easily without turning cloudy, milky or hazy.

To examine an emerald for clarity and transparency, follow these easy steps:

1. Wipe the stone with a soft cloth and view it under fluorescent, overhead lighting both with the naked eye and with the assistance of a 10X magnifying loupe.

2. Look at the stone from all angles making sure to let light reflect off the surface. Such reflection can reveal dangerous cracks

3. Remember that just because a particular emerald might exhibit perfect color, if it is less than semi-transparent bordering on opaque, the color factor is moot.

4. When shopping for top quality gemstones, it is always best to purchase loose stones and have them set yourself. Prongs and other settings can hide flaws and make close examination very difficult

5. Keep in mind, the cut of the stone effects clarity. Always compare similar cuts with one another

6. After observing the stone under overhead lighting, ask to see the stone under diffused lighting shining up diagonally through the bottom of the stone. This reveals some inclusions you may miss with overhead lighting.

7. Also remember that lighter stones will exhibit better clarity than darker stones. This does not mean the lighter stone is higher quality, so compare darker stones with darker stones.

Cut Quality
Cut Quality Express Facts

Most Colombian emeralds are shaped into emerald cut because of the natural growth patterns from that region. Round faceted emeralds can demand as much per carat as diamonds. Think proportion and symmetry when examining a faceted stone.

Although cut plays an important role in determining the value of an emerald, this factor places a distant third to color and clarity in significance. Without getting too involved in the specifics of gem cutting here, there are a few things to keep in mind regarding the cut and style of emeralds.

1. The famous "emerald cut" is either a square or rectangular shaped stone with stair-step facets on all four sides and where the corners have been trimmed off.

2. Even though the emerald cut is most popular, large, high-quality round cuts can be more valuable. This is due to the fact that a round cut demands more precision and it requires that more of the rough stone be lost in cutting. Round emeralds can demand as much as round diamonds.

3. Fancy shapes, like hearts or pears, can be extremely valuable as well, particularly if you want more than one. This is due to the fact that it can take a long time to find matching color and clarity in stones cut in these shapes.

4. Always remember to compare matching cuts with each other.

5. Cutting style can also be determined by the country the stone is from. Colombian crystals tend to grow in hexagonal patterns, hence, they are typically cut emerald styles. While African rough emeralds are more likely to grow into a round shape, making round cutting easier and more efficient.

There are as many cuts and styles for emeralds as any other gemstone. Always make sure to examine each stone for how well it’s cut. Is the crown (top facets) too high or low? Is the culet (bottom point) off center? Is the stone too flat? Is there a big window when viewed from the top (not good)? Ask the jeweler what the depth percentage is (depth/width ratio, between 60% to 80% is good) Feel free to choose whatever style catches your eye. If you happen to like a marquise shape, by all means, get one. You might even save some money because most gem dealers tend to agree that this shape is not the best for emeralds.

Carat Weight
Carat Weight Express Facts

One carat equals one fifth of one gram Always think in terms of cost-per-carat. Emeralds under 1/2 carat are sold by millimeter, not by the carat.

A carat is a carat. One carat equals one-fifth of one gram. This does not mean, however, that carats cost the same. Larger stones tend to carry a higher per-carat cost due to the scarcity of top quality emeralds in bigger sizes. Therefore, it is a good idea to think in terms of price per carat, rather than total cost. A couple other tips concerning weight:

1. Beware of "Total weight" price tags. A pendant may have multiple stones on it bringing the total weight to well over one carat, but you want to know the price per carat of the individual stones on the pendant. Always ask the jeweler for such pricing.
2. Emeralds under 1/2 carat are sold by size, not weight. Stones in this weight category are listed in millimeter size.
31. Remember that as emeralds increase in weight, their size becomes unpredictable, so it’s a good idea to compare stones of the same weight against one another.
4. Emeralds are far less dense than gems like diamonds or rubies. A one carat emerald will be quite a bit larger than a one carat ruby or diamond.
5. A good rule of thumb is to multiply the price-per carat of a particular stone by the carat weight to determine exactly what the total cost of the stone should be.

Emerald Checklist
Okay, you’re ready to go buy the green gemstone of your dreams. Print out this sheet, take a soft cloth and a 10X magnifying loupe, and hit the stores.

Color: Anything from light to dark green is acceptable. Bluish-green stones from Columbia are considered the ultimate. Examine the stone under fluorescent lighting from all angles for uniformity and consistency of color distribution.

Clarity: Remember that all gemstones are flawed. The only flaws that are unacceptable are those that endanger durability (like deep cracks) or block transparency (internal fluid deposits that give the stone a milky, opaque appearance.)

Cut: Emeralds come in any cut you like. The emerald and round cuts tend to be the most valuable. Look for clean, sharp facets. Check from all angles for proportion, symmetry and finish. Crown too high? Culet off center? Big window on top? Ask about depth percentages. (Confused? refer back to the "Cut" section of this guide for details.)

Carat Weight: Think in terms of price per carat, not total cost. Cost per carat varies with cut, size and quality. Emeralds under 1/2 carat will be sold by the millimeter. Always compare stones of equal size and weight with one another as density can vary.

Treatments: Almost all emeralds have been oiled for clarity enhancement. That’s fine. Ask if a stone has been epoxy enhanced. This practice has lost stature in recent years and is now considered not acceptable. Always get treatments in writing.

Synthetics and Imitations: If a stone is too perfect, the price is unbelievable, the facets are too simple, the flaws don’t look like those you see in other emeralds, the dealer tells you "this CZ is a lab grown emerald" beware. Always shop at reputable dealers, don’t buy over the phone or mail until you check the company out thoroughly and get a full money back guarantee. Make sure you get all synthetics and imitations written on your bill of sale.

Synthetic Emeralds
Synthetic Express Facts

Never believe a price that’s too good to be true. Synthetic emeralds are a beautiful, affordable alternative to natural. Synthetic emeralds will never increase in value.

Let’s cut to the chase. Synthetic emeralds are actual stones that have been grown in a lab with the same chemical construction as those found in nature. Imitations are basically glass. Before we talk about glass, a brief overview of defining characteristics found in synthetics is a good idea.

Synthetics: Dealers will call them "created," "cultured" or "man-made," these names sound better, but they’re still synthetic. There is nothing wrong with owning a created stone, as long as you know what you’re buying. As a matter of fact, lab-grown emeralds have some very attractive features.

1. They cost a lot less than natural stones

2. They tend to be more free from flaws, making them stronger while exhibiting greater clarity

3. You can own a beautiful created emerald that, if natural, might otherwise be way out of your price range
The two obvious drawbacks are:

1. Synthetics will never increase in value. They will decrease

2. There is nothing like owning a beautiful emerald that you know came from the depths of natures own factory.

In most cases, you will need to hire a professional appraiser to tell the difference between natural and synthetic stones, but if you look at enough natural emeralds you can familiarize yourself with the color and clarity you should expect from nature. Synthetics will tend to be a little more perfect green, and have far fewer flaws. If you are about to spend a lot of money, and the stone looks a little too perfect, make sure to have an impartial gemologist inspect the stone for you.

One more thing, don’t confuse lab-grown green cubic zirconia (cz) with lab-grown emeralds. Although, CZ is a viable option to natural emeralds, it should sell for substantially less than created emeralds.

Imitations: Almost always glass, imitation emeralds have been around for centuries. Again, there is nothing wrong with these fakes, as long as nobody tries to sell them to you as real. The best way to tell the difference is to simply get to know the flaws that are particular to glass. Look at your wine glasses closely; see those bubbles? You will find similar inclusions in glass emeralds. Also, keep an eye out for facets that are too simple, or concave, "stones" that are too perfect, or prices that are just too low. Beware of closed-back settings on jewelry. This is the best way to hide flaws, imitations and deceptive treatments.

Deceptive Practices: Basically, all treatments, synthetics and imitations are totally acceptable market enhancers for one of the most valuable gemstones on earth. They only become a problem when unscrupulous dealers attempt to pass any of them off as natural, untreated, unenhanced gems. Here’s some things to look out for:

1. Varnish coatings to make the stone appear greener.

2. Foil backings, where tin foil is sealed on the bottom of the stone and then placed in a closed back setting. This makes for higher reflection, and enhanced color and clarity.

3. Some synthetics are too free from flaws. So, deceptive dealers will heat the created stone and then throw it in cold water causing it to crack, giving it the appearance of a natural stone. This is called Quench-Cracking.

4. Composites. When either a natural stone has been glued to a synthetic or imitation to add weight. This process is fairly easy to detect in loose stones, but watch out for mounted emeralds where the connection can be hidden.

5. Watch out for any dealer selling emeralds with added names like "Evening Emerald," or "Oriental Emerald." Anytime you see one of these types of monikers, beware! An emerald is an emerald and doesn’t need an additional name to add to its beauty and value.

6. Don’t buy emeralds through the mail, including the internet, unless you get a money-back guarantee and you have thoroughly checked out the company with the Gemological Institute of America or the American Gemological Association, or the Better Business Bureau.

Treated Emeralds
Treated Express Facts

Make sure treatments are clearly stated on your bill of sale. Get a professional appraisal only if you are purchasing a very expensive stone.

Emeralds are about the only gemstone that is not heat treated for color enhancement. However, it is one of the most visibly flawed stones on the market. So, how do dealers enhance the stone for sale and disclose the treatment without turning off a prospective client, who wants a naturally beautiful stone, while revealing the work that’s been done?

Almost all emeralds have surface cracks, pits and other blemishes that mar the overall appearance of the gem. If the crack begins on the surface and reaches into the stone, it can be filled with either a color enhancing oil or an epoxy filling. Both treatments are not permanent and have their drawbacks.

1. Oil fillings hide cracks very well and improve overall color, but the oil wears away in a fairly short period of time, leaving a noticeable brownish or whitish residue. The good news is the residue is easily cleaned away and the stone can be re-oiled. This is the preferred method of color enhancement, as long as the oil is colorless. The use of green colored oil is considered unethical.

2. Epoxy fillings, although far more durable than oil treatments, have proven to not offer the solution to the lack of permanence of oiling that was once hoped for. The problem is that, although, the treatment lasts much longer than oiling, the epoxy will eventually dry up, leaving the same residue as the oil, but impossible to clean and re-treat.

Until a new material is discovered that can permanently fill the cracks common to emeralds, oiling is the method of choice at this point. And it is a perfectly acceptable treatment, as long as there is full disclosure. Which brings us to the bigger issue:

Full Disclosure: Most gem dealers are highly ethical professionals, but there are the occasional bad apples who will try to pass off treated stones as natural. You need a professional appraiser to tell the difference, so if you are just looking at a relatively inexpensive stone, don’t bother. If, however, you are considering a very valuable emerald, by all means have it checked out by a pro before plopping down thousands of dollars. The only thing you can do is to look for cracks on the surface of the stone. If there is no break on the surface, there is no way for oil or epoxy to enter the stone. It is best to assume that all stones have been oiled for clarity enhancement. This becomes an issue in exact proportion to the amount of money you are about to spend on your emerald. Remember, though, that the law requires dealers to disclose all treatments. Therefore, don’t be afraid to insist that disclosure of such treatments be clearly stated on your bill of sale.

Disclaimer
The above information was sourced from www.TheDiamond.com.

Contact: info@thediamond.com
1-800-320-9670 / 212-967-9670


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